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	<title>Bohemian Blog &#187; Mechanical Repair</title>
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		<title>1997 Ford Escort: Varying Idle and Stalling</title>
		<link>http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/2009/08/1997-ford-escort-varying-idle-and-stalling/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/2009/08/1997-ford-escort-varying-idle-and-stalling/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Aug 2009 05:40:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jason</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mechanical Repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/?p=211</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My wife’s 1997 Ford Escort suddenly started having idling problems today. Basically, whenever the car was fully stopped or in park it would idle up and down, hovering over stalling and eventually doing just that. However, it would have no problems restarting after the stall. Initially I thought the problem was related to the status [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My wife’s 1997 Ford Escort suddenly started having idling problems today. Basically, whenever the car was fully stopped or in park it would idle up and down, hovering over stalling and eventually doing just that. However, it would have no problems restarting after the stall.</p>
<p>Initially I thought the problem was related to the status of motor oil&#8230; but that’s another issue. Topping off the motor oil to the appropriate level did nothing to correct the idling problem.</p>
<p>After that disappointment I started noticing a hissing, or air-sucking noise coming from somewhere around the engine. This turned out to be the key.</p>
<p>I found a small hole in the L-bend of the PCV hose, which sits along the top-back of the engine on this particular Escort model. I put my finger over the hole and the engine suddenly returned to normal idle. The L-bend piece was actually caved-in around the hole, so proper repair would mean replacing the PCV hose or PCV hose and valve, depending on how Ford sells the parts. However, with one day left in the work week I temporarily repaired the L-bend with an abundant wrapping of black electric tape. This seems to work and will hopefully keep the car running properly until I can replace the PCV part or parts on Saturday.</p>
<p>You can read more about the interesting history and functionality of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve" target="_blank">PCV valve at Wikipedia</a>.</p>
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		<title>Car Brake Lights Stuck On</title>
		<link>http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/2008/07/car-brake-lights-stuck-on/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/2008/07/car-brake-lights-stuck-on/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:20:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jason</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mechanical Repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/?p=131</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last night my wife informed me that her brake lights were stuck on. It had been a rainy day, so my biggest fear was that there was some sort of electrical short God-knows-where inside the car. This could be expensive. After some back-and-forth of tapping the brakes, turning on the car, turning the lights on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last night my wife informed me that her brake lights were stuck on. It had been a rainy day, so my biggest fear was that there was some sort of electrical short God-knows-where inside the car. This could be expensive. After some back-and-forth of tapping the brakes, turning on the car, turning the lights on and off with no result I finally changed clothes and squirmed under the dash to see what was up. Here&#8217;s what I found, in case it might be helpful to others.</p>
<p style="display: block;">The brake pedal is connected to at least one button for turning the brake lights on and off. As the pedal is released, the button is depressed. As the pedal is pressed, the button is released. When the button is depressed, the lights go off. When the button is released, the lights go on.</p>
<p>In the case of my wife&#8217;s 1996 Ford Escort, there is a small, blue rubber pad on the &#8216;contact plate&#8217; that the brake light button presses against. The reason I was looking under the dashboard in the first place is because my wife asked if maybe the blue rubber filings and rubber pad that she recently found on the driver-side floorboard might have something to do with her brake light problem. She was right after all.</p>
<p><img class="size-full wp-image-132" style="display: block; margin: 0 auto;" title="Brake Light Button Diagram" src="http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/brakelightbtn.png" alt="Brake Light Button Diagram" width="400" height="499" /></p>
<p>Since the pad had fallen off of the contact plate the button was not getting depressed far enough to turn off the lights when the brake pedal was released. The solution is to replace the little blue pad. I was not able to find out what this thing was called or even if you could buy one without replacing the entire brake light switch.</p>
<p>The rubber pad worked like a ladies ear ring. It had a little nub on the back that fit into a hole in the contact plate. Probably due to age, this nub broke off and created a big headache for me. In order to avoid visiting the Ford dealer I simply reconnected the nub with some super glue and, after a lot of sweating upside down under the steering wheel, snapped the blue pad back in place. It&#8217;s been a few days. So far the super glue is still holding the rubber pad together. My wife&#8217;s brake lights are back in action.</p>
<h3>UPDATE</h3>
<p><a href="http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/rubber_broke.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Well, the repaired rubber pad didn&#8217;t last long: 2 days. Now it&#8217;s broken into several pieces.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-133" title="rubber_broke" src="http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/rubber_broke.jpg" alt="rubber_broke" width="300" height="243" /></p>
<p>But I came up with a better solution. This time I rebuilt the pad using a foam-based wine bottle cork, a circle cut-out in heavy coated paper (a better surface for the button to press against) and the original pad&#8217;s little stem. All assembled with super glue. Let&#8217;s see how long this one lasts.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" title="rubber_fixed" src="http://www.bohemianalps.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/rubber_fixed.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="230" /></p>
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